Day Five - Tuesday 20th January

Today Kabs took me to a paper mill - the only one in Gambia. Paper mill is far too grand a title for what I saw - it was one small room, which is the 'mill.' A young English woman called May lived and worked within the compound walls, which housed her and her Gambian husband and child - May has adopted the Muslim faith and was therefore dressed appropriately.

She evidently had come to the Gambia straight from university, seen the overwhelming needs of the people, identified the need for paper and set about establishing her own mill and forming her company as a charity. She suffered great hardships during the two years this took to achieve but with great strength of character and GTS support as 'family' she won through and finally established links with industry to collect their waste paper to recycle and make her own. I was fascinated with the simple procedure she adopts.

Impressive is hardly the word! Nothing is wasted in Gambia, 'when needs must' is the reason of course. But that is enterprising and brave isn't it?

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Rarely have I seen someone so young, so committed and content with her life, which is far from materially rich but from all other angles, is rich beyond belief.

Next time I return to Gambia I shall revisit and watch the actual process of making the paper. I bought one of her lovely handmade books in which to put this diary record as a constant reminder of a young woman of remarkable qualities.

I don't believe I told you about my first visit to the school in which I hope to eventually support teach and for which GTS have bought all the materials and the community has built it and will manage it after the Official Opening.

Well, when I saw it I thought it would be wonderful when finished, two large classrooms and a small office. But there was so much to do including putting in windows, adding doors, painting the whole building, concreting a floor, removal of major piles of rubble in front of the entrance and painting of the outside of the building too.

I saw it on Sunday - the Official Opening is Friday.

I could not believe it would be ready; especially bearing in mind 'Gambian time' - but Kabs assured me it would and on Thursday took me back to see it. I was astounded - it was nearly ready! Areas for the flower troughs were even being marked out. Kabs then took me to a nearby compound and as I stepped through the rusty gate I entered a yard full of small desks and benches with two carpenters lovingly rubbing them down and painting them in the heat of the day.

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My throat constricted again - but at no time did I show the emotion I felt other than how impressed I was with their achievements and versatility.

We then visited another similar nearby compound to see the sign-makers. Here two men deliberated with Kabs over a set of large, old and very rusty tin gates. I ascertained they would be cut down and utilised for a sign in the village pointing the way to the village square where the school is built and a further two signs for the actual building. When prepared the sign writer will do his work and I have no doubt a professional finish will be the end result. 'Waste not, want not'. The sign writer, incidentally, is the same man I met on the building site my first day and who spoke beautiful English.

He was helping to build the school, he had taught for 25 years in schools and his father was a famous African artist - he too had inherited an artistic talent and he too painted. I asked him if, before I return to the school to support teach in November, he could paint a picture of Africa for me. I did not ask for the school, or anything African but asked him to paint what he thought I would like after our conversation. He has promised to do that and I know that he will. That picture will one day take pride of place in my home - the thought excites me. But what a talented man he is.

Flexibility, adaptability is a Gambian way of life - one must admire them for it. So, despite my fears regarding completion, despite the shortness of time everything is happening all over the village, Gambian style - relaxed, no worries, its truly amazing.

I'm home now diary - I'm sitting in the garden of my compound. Entirely alone, very peaceful. My hair is drying in the sun and I have cleansed myself as much as possible in a bucket of cold water. Really, I've never been so dirty and dishevelled and I love it and don't care, I do not have to impress anyone or present myself in any light other than what I am today.

Oh, I nearly forgot. I also visited the compound in Manjai where I had originally planned to stay. It belongs to GTS and can be hired by members (membership is only 12.50 per annum) for £45 per week. It is lovely; it has two large double rooms, a large lounge/dining room with fridge and TV. (Wouldn't want that!) and a toilet and shower room. All Gambian style though and charming. I would however, have been the only person within the compound that week and at least a 20 minute taxi drive away from the office and Kololi town.

Francis believed for my first visit alone I would be happier renting a room where I am - just a 10-15 minute walk to the office and with others nearby should I need help. He was right - but next time I will probably choose to be totally independent - unless Bryn feels happier if I am within the house again. We shall see. I think I've got my memories a bit out of synch - but you don't mind diary do you?

I'm tired now, oh, a tiny red bird has just hopped by my feet. A cat, lazing in the sun has raised its head, looked at it and put its head back down - too hot to bother!!

Now I think I will go to bed for a few hours and rest, the heat is exhausting. Then I shall take a taxi to the GTS restaurant to have something to eat and talk to Francis. I wonder if he thinks I am suitable for GTS work?

Saw Francis and asked him - he said he would be more than delighted if I come back and support teach and also help with some administration. I am so pleased I have passed muster!

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