Updated
May 20, 2001

Gambia Tourist Support

Gambia to Dakar

Francis, I hope you can print some of this off and give it to your members when they come to stay - just to remind them that they will never see the heart and soul of Gambia by travelling with the tour operators, or by flying to Dakar !!

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Customs point on entering Senegal

Regular visitors since 1989, they contacted May after hearing about her paper project but unfortunately this coincided with her kidney stone problems between February and May, now totally sresolved following an operation in the UK during may 2001.

I hope you enjoy Shirley's account as much as I did.


A loaded Banjul ferry


Well loaded lorry


Shirley by a truck in Dakar

Hello Francis, unfortunately I have never got around to going right thru the web site, but what I have seen is excellent and easy to use.
Thank goodness.

I have just been browsing again whilst winding down from a four to midnight shift (paramedic) You may think it crazy to try and wind down and not fall down at half past midnight, but it is impossible to finish the shift , drive home, and go straight to bed.

Only those persons who have worked in the emergency services understand what this feeling is. Are you one of those people?

Anyway it has been my involvement with the Gambia over the last few years that has kept my sanity.

I see from the web site that some very ordinary Gambian mishaps have come your way during the last few weeks, I realize now why my one week visit was busy but missing the drama!!! You pinched it all...

Have you tried going by car thru to Dakar? well that really is an experience, stopped in every village, no bribe, no go. Armed police in old Renault 5's, ciggy from the side of the mouth, sunglasses, with the face looking away from you, head tilted and a pretence of not understanding a word of English, but they know every word you utter!!!

For years I had wanted to see the finish of the Paris-Dakar rally and after loads of planning from Aug to Dec, we had our week in Gambia and off we went to Senegal, husband (Tony), myself and our Gambian family Ousman & Embrima (they had not travelled to Senegal either, but Ousmans French is good, which turned out to be a bonus)

The journey should have taken 4/5 hours, it took 13 hours
breakdowns (not nervous) eleven, as always loss of the exhaust,

throttle cable mishaps numerous times,
eventually repaired to keep us going by small rocks and strong long grass, it keeps you mobile and going forward at approx 30mph,
but not uphill.

Yes we did make it after an unplanned overnight stop (where the vehicle had a better repair)
'The accommodation was very good, new mud brick with toilet & washbasin - no bed linen or cover.

Retiring at midnight, for the early start next morning to Dakar (still hearing them repairing the vehicle) the exhausted Brittons dozed off, but each time were awakened by the donkeys and two goats that shared the same corrugated roof (which did not meet the walls)

The donkeys would neigh or snort, which in turn made the goats kick the wall, this musical comedy went on right thru the night.

About 7am when it was time for the off, my husband, just had to view them, - yes the donkeys were resting the goats asleep.

Tony by then was not seeing the joke, he kicked the wall shouting "see how you like it."

Obviously no toilet facilities en-route, but it is Africa and being with two who spoke French helped, as permission from very friendly people was given to use the toilet more than once whilst travelling thru. (dont get me wrong the bush was also used)

On one occasion when my husband was trying to establish from the Officer in Uniform how much bribe he needed for us to continue on, I approached a compound to do the urgent wee wee, when I heard that all too familiar groan of a person giving birth, so I had to hastily retreat to the next accommodating compound.

"It is the second door " said the lady - Yes my sense of smell would not get me lost - the noise coming from there was also high, buzzing & whizzing over the top and from underneath the door you could see the most giant like bluebottles battling it out, dive bombing, amazing.

Well it just had to be, I squatted over the hole with great relief, hoping the enormous flies would have mercy!!!

Going back to Tony we both had huge smiles on our faces

His was for "I'm just waiting for my change, the officer wanted about £2 and he has just gone over there for my change. Yes, change is given out of a bribe - but only in Africa, and off we went yet again.

Tired? yes, frustrated? well no, this is Africa where hospitality is second to none, days unconnected with the passage of time. Bribery the occasional bonus in the art of survival.


Salt piles collected after evaporating sea water

It was a marvellous experience and will be done again.

Have you thought about the motor sport tourist who may not know how to go about planning this?


A well loaded lorry and the Dakar race Finishing post

Of course we did not see one other white person throughout our journey and the only Europeans at Dakar were very close members of the entrants family or the mechanics.

All are just real Africa holiday facts.

The incidents that happened on that journey to Dakar in 1999, (as always, happens when the novice travels in Gambia) were so funny you could not make them up.

We have travelled about 1800/2000 miles in twelve years, always with the same two brothers, who did not know their country. They have gained so much knowledge of their country and its people - one is a signwriter, the other Ousman is unemployed.

We first visited Gambia in 1989, it was that year we started our friendship with Ousman's mother (she is now frail) but not old, Ousman was about 15 years with a younger brother and sister.


A massive palm fan some over 20 feet across grace the skyline

Obviously after all these years they are my family across the water, although Ous always states, "I am Gambian but BRITTON blended."

Here we have a son & daughter; the daughter is a paramedic, the son a bricklayer. Between them they have seven children, but within my daughters four boys are twins. We believe they have finished now.

Two weeks ago we took the eldest granddaughter to Gambia, it was her second visit, of course she wants to spend the rest of her life their, like we all do, but reality says - GCSE later this month!

My husband is a builder and has been all his life. I have been a paramedic for 22 years, this week I applied for a pension forecast and I am looking towards taking this and returning for 20 hours per week it is now a dangerous game out there and our service are in the throws of sorting out stab jackets.

Very sad.

Depending on whether my shift finishes on time tomorrow night, I will have another look at the web site, and might even sign in, in the meantime our thoughts are with you all, (tell May to drink litres & litres of water) We look forward to hearing from you, should you have the time and becoming one of the GTS family in the future.

Kind regards, I am off to the terrible Friday late shift!!

Shirley & Tony

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